One of the biggest hurdles for new perfumers is not the formulas themselves but knowing where to buy the materials and how to make sense of them. This guide demystifies the whole supply chain: the categories of ingredients you’ll work with, how to read the CAS numbers and percentages on a formula, the equipment you need, and a region-by-region list of trusted suppliers across the US, EU, UK and Australia. Whether you’re making your first beginner formula or tackling an advanced reconstruction, this is the reference to keep open on your bench.
The four categories of perfumery materials
Almost everything in a perfume formula falls into one of four groups. Understanding them makes a materials list far less intimidating.
Aroma chemicalsare single, well-defined molecules — either synthesised or isolated from naturals. Materials like Iso E Super, Hedione, Ambroxan, vanillin and coumarin are the workhorses of modern perfumery. They are consistent batch to batch, often powerful, and usually the most cost-effective way to build a structure. Most of a modern designer fragrance is, in fact, aroma chemicals.
Naturalsare essential oils, absolutes, resinoids and CO₂ extracts: bergamot oil, rose absolute, patchouli, labdanum, frankincense. They bring complexity and richness that single molecules can’t, but they vary with harvest and origin, can be expensive, and some carry IFRA restrictions. A great fragrance usually marries naturals and aroma chemicals.
Bases and specialty accordsare pre-built blends — a ready-made “oud” or “leather” or “saffron” accord — that suppliers sell to save you reconstructing a difficult effect from scratch. They are a perfectly legitimate shortcut and appear in many of our formulas, flagged with supplier notes.
Solvents and diluentscarry and dilute everything else. Dipropylene glycol (DPG) and perfumer’s alcohol (high-proof ethanol) are the two you’ll use constantly — DPG to pre-dilute powerful materials, alcohol to dilute the finished concentrate to wearable strength.
How to read a formula: CAS numbers and percentages
Every material in a ScentFormulas formula is listed with a CAS number— a unique identifier assigned by the Chemical Abstracts Service. Because the same material can have many trade names, the CAS number is the unambiguous way to order exactly the right thing. When a supplier’s product page lists CAS 54464-57-2, you know it’s Iso E Super regardless of what they’ve named it.
The percentagesin a formula describe the concentrate — the blend of aroma materials before you dilute it. They sum to 100% (with DPG or alcohol making up any balance). Because percentage by weight equals grams per 100 g, the formula doubles as a bench sheet: a material at 8% means 8 g in a 100 g batch, 0.8 g in a 10 g batch, and so on. Our on-screen calculator does this scaling for you, but the relationship is worth internalising.
A crucial habit: pre-dilute powerful materials. Many aroma chemicals — damascones, Calone, indole, some woods — are so strong they’re used at fractions of a percent. Weighing 0.05 g accurately is hard, so dissolve these into a 10% solution in DPG first, then weigh ten times as much of the dilution. Our formulas flag which materials to pre-dilute.
The equipment you actually need
You can start for a modest outlay. The non-negotiable item is a scale that reads to 0.01 g— perfumery is done by weight, not volume, because materials have very different densities. Beyond that: glass beakers, disposable pipettes, small amber glass bottles for storage, labels, and the two solvents above. A second scale reading to 0.001 g is a nice upgrade for trace materials but not essential when you pre-dilute. Avoid plastic for storing concentrates, as some materials attack it.
Where to buy: suppliers by region
The hobby-perfumery supply scene is healthy worldwide. These are the well-known, reputable retailers that perfumers return to. Always check current IFRA and shipping restrictions for your country, as some materials can’t cross certain borders.
United States
- Perfumer’s Apprentice — huge range of aroma chemicals and naturals, beginner-friendly, small sizes.
- Pell Wall (ships internationally) and Eden Botanicals — excellent for high-quality naturals and absolutes.
- The Good Scents Company — not a shop but the indispensable free reference database for material properties and CAS numbers.
United Kingdom & Europe
- Pell Wall Perfumes (UK) — outstanding range, clear documentation, pre-dilutions available, ships across the EU.
- Perfumer’s Supply House and Mystic Moments (UK) — accessible naturals and starter kits.
- Hekserij (Netherlands) and Behawe (Germany) — broad EU-based aroma-chemical selection with reasonable shipping.
Australia & New Zealand
- Aussie Soap Supplies and New Directions (AU) — reliable for naturals, solvents and equipment locally, avoiding international shipping limits.
- Escentials of Australia — good for essential oils and absolutes.
- For specialty aroma chemicals not stocked locally, AU perfumers often order from Pell Wall (UK), checking dangerous-goods shipping rules first.
Budgeting and buying smart
You don’t need to buy everything at once. Start by buying only the materials for one or two formulas in the smallest sizes offered — often 5–10 g or ml — which keeps the initial cost low and lets you learn before committing. Many materials overlap between formulas, so a starter palette quickly becomes the foundation for dozens of builds. Iso E Super, Hedione, Ambroxan, a good musk, vanillin, coumarin, bergamot and a sandalwood material will get you a remarkably long way. As you grow, buy the workhorse materials you reach for constantly in larger, cheaper sizes.
Storage and shelf life
Stored well — cool, dark, tightly capped, away from heat and light — most aroma chemicals last for years. Citrus oils and some naturals oxidise faster and are best bought in quantities you’ll use within a year or two. Keep your concentrates and dilutions clearly labelled with the material name, CAS number, dilution strength and date; a small mislabelling error can waste an entire batch.
A note on safety and compliance
Concentrated materials can irritate skin and eyes, and some are sensitisers. Always read the supplier’s safety data sheet, work in a ventilated space, avoid skin contact with neat materials, and patch-test finished fragrances. If you ever move beyond personal use, you must comply with the IFRA Standards, which cap many materials by product category for safety. Our formulas include IFRA notes to point you in the right direction, and you can read more in our guide on the legality of clone formulas.
Ready to start?
With your materials sourced and your scale calibrated, you’re ready to make something. If you’re new, begin with a beginner formula or a straightforward fresh or amber composition where the structure is easy to hear. Every ScentFormulas formula lists each material with its CAS number and exact percentage, so this guide and your formula are all you need to make a faithful, designer-inspired fragrance at home. For the full step-by-step process, see how it works.